The trick to fermentation, I learned this week, is to manage a busy, chaotic world of microorganisms, all doing what they must do, as primitive living things - in a way that creates something first, safe, and then utterly delicious. 

Larry Nguyen, who is the Larder Chef at Oregon’s high-end ōkta restaurant, says, “I create environments, little nudges here and there to focus on which reaction I want and to allow those microorganisms to outcompete other food spoilage bacteria.”

After speaking with Larry, I see why he’s so good at this job. It seems to me that  - it seems to me that this is what he’s been doing in kitchens long before he became one of the nation’s preeminent Larder Chefs.  

Larry takes us into the busy, chaotic, high-stress, low profit world of restaurants and speaks passionately about the importance of patience and cultivating people above all else. In a place where frustration, ego, or profit margins constantly threaten a positive outcome, Larry works “to create an environment, little nudges here and there” that supports shared success over the long run and enjoyment along the way. 

The truth is, whenever we’re with people - in our homes, our workplaces, our institutions - we’re in environments that desperately need patient, skillful cultivation of people. Larry, who is humble, quick to laugh, experienced and successful, is the perfect person to share this leadership philosophy with us.

Highlights

• Bánh Xèo Tôm Nhảy - What Larry loves about it and why 
• Larry’s immigrant mother working 60 hours a week and then teaching Larry to cook.
• His paternal and maternal grandparents differing approaches to food as a love language.
• The NAME OF province - fishing town
• Larry’s family history from China -> Vietnam -> United States
• The best fried chicken we’ve ever head
• Different starches and what they bring to fried dishes
• Larry’s introduction to fermentation and how he fell into an expertise in fermentation
• What does it take for a restaurant to make it?
• Investing in people. 
• Fermentation: The science and history
• What’s the difference between fermentation and rotting?
• Why our bodies and palates crave fermented food.

Key Quotes

• “I can’t eat all of these. Do I tell them to stop?”
• “My mom would keep rolling these for me and my brother and only so often sneak one for herself.”
• "Restaurants are a moment in time.”
• "It was his job to catch these mistakes young chefs make. It was my job to learn from my mistakes."
• "Most kitchens I’ve worked in haven’t made it."
• "A restaurant is a low profit, high risk business. And that’s a fact."
• "I grew up with an Eastern mindset: The group comes first; we all sacrifice for the family. But I also grew up Western."
• "In my opinion, for a restaurant to succeed, you must cultivate people above all else."
• "Which cultures have fermented? The answer is: All of them."
• "Fermentation IS cooking, it’s just cooking very slowly."

Listen to Larry Now

Follow The Storied Recipe in Your Favorite Player Larry's Storied Recipe: Jumping Shrimp Vietnamese Crepes https://thestoriedrecipe.com/vietnamese-crepes-banh-xeo-tom-nhay/ Find Chef Nguyen and okta

Visit the ōkta Website: ōktaoregon.com

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