You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk to Paul Schneider, co-owner of Twist, an independent jewelry business known for being an incubator for cutting-edge design talent. Victoria heard Paul Schneider speak at the “Conversations in Park City” event and was struck by how authentic he was and interested in the information he delivered about how his business is growing, and so was inspired to have him on. Paul talks about his wife's and his origins in the crafts movement, how they made their way into the jewelry industry, how they showcase designers' voices, and overcome obstacles.

Show Notes

01:50 Guest intro, Paul Schneider

03:20 Paul talks about his background as a craftsman

04:20 When jewelry entered the conversation

08:40 Growing and shaping the business

14:10 Lab-grown diamonds

16:20 Paul talks video content

20:50 Advice for overcoming challenges

Episode Credits

Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky

Guest: Paul Schneider

Producer and engineer: Natalie Chomet

Plugs: @jckmagazine, jckonline.com, Twist

Show Recap

Paul’s Background

Paul and his wife Lauren Eulau met in college and were part of the crafts movement. He was a potter and she was a weaver. When did jewelry enter the conversation? Paul isn’t a big planner. His wife’s and his careers have grown by going with the flow. He tells an anecdote about an accountant who asks what their goals are. They decided they needed a different accountant! He doesn’t necessarily recommend this approach, but they’ve been industrious. New doors open up because they never had a commitment to any one path. It ended up working for them.

“Our commitment was to beautiful objects” made by themselves or friends. They met someone who made porcelain earrings. They put them in their store because they were ceramic. It sold amazingly well. This underlined that people bought jewelry because it had deeper meaning—it was more personal. They started out only selling ceramic jewelry. Then they researched and branched out to other materials. They redefined their limits into something more broad. They were still craftspeople. They just included jewelers who used other materials. Their evolution was very slow, but it allowed them to learn as they went.

Branching Out and Narrowing Down

They branched out from Eugene to Portland. There couldn’t be two businesses like theirs in Eugene. They needed to go to a bigger city. They decided something had to give after they had a baby. They decided to stop making things and just sell. Twist is known for being an incubator for cutting edge, coveted designers. How’d they get there? His wife’s and Paul’s tastes are very different, but they respect each other’s tastes. It is easy for them to find pieces. They have such good communication skills that it doesn’t take a lot of discussion for them to make those choices.

Pacific Northwest Identity

Is Paul’s business uniquely suited for Portland or could it work elsewhere? The type of business could work somewhere else, but the kind of products they sell are a result of the Pacific Northwest lifestyle. It’s not showy. You’d be ridiculed for wearing a large diamond. There’s an appreciation for craftsmanship and quality. Their particular pieces might not work in other places, but their approach does.

They are always looking for new designers and pieces. Though they don’t often sell items that come in unsolicited, but he does address every inquiry. He feels responsible to do that. Their origins are with people who make things for a living. They support people who are doing things that are beautiful and do not have access to the marketplace. They are looking for originators, not second generation.

Lab-Grown Diamonds

They offered lab-grown diamonds a few years ago when it was a new development. They have plans to do a collection based on that with specific lab-grown diamond producer. Paul thinks it’s a clear direction the industry is moving in. The line will be ready soon.

Bringing Designers to the Consumer

Victoria asks about the videos they do. The videos are all about the designers and the stories they are telling. Their daughter makes the videos. The videos are always in the designers’ words. Consumers can look at the video and through them, have a two-minute visit with the designer. It adds to the impact and experience. You can understand what’s going on in the pieces. Twist also has QR codes in the cases that bring up the video.

Through the videos, their daughter has gotten more involved in the jewelry world. Now she works at a jewelry consultant in NY. Is it hard to “turn it off” as a family business? There’s no separation. It’s just life. Paul finds that it clarifies and simplifies family relationships. They are all on the same team, whether it’s family or work.

Overcoming Obstacles

Twist is hiring and has been getting a higher quality of applicant recently. Paul thinks the hiring market is starting to calm down. They employ 25 people, including 5 people on the website, and retail staff. They consider online its own store. All three stores (including online) were very close in sales this year, which says a lot about their online business.

Any advice for other independent jewelers? Things are changing quickly in life and jewelry is no different. The values in the industry were based on rich family history and deep relationships with communities. That’s changing—competing with a global market. Embrace technology and communication, he advises. Keep an open mind about what’s going on. Twist was always quick to adapt, without being weighed down by tradition.

Paul loves hearing about small businesses. And he likes that we are giving a voice to independent creators on the podcast. Everyone is kind of alone when they have a small business. Platforms that give them a voice can help.