In this episode of Flavors Unknown, I sit down with Chef Mario Pagán at his restaurant La Central in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Chef Pagán is a visionary in Puerto Rican cuisine, blending French techniques with bold, local flavors in what he calls the “Nueva Mesa Boricua” philosophy. With a restaurant portfolio that includes Mario Pagán, La Central, and Raya by Mario Pagán in Puerto Rico, along with Chayote in Winter Park, Florida, his culinary influence is far-reaching.

Chef Pagán shares his deep respect for food, tradition, and his team, as well as his belief in letting Puerto Rican dishes evolve while preserving their cultural heritage. From his late-night bursts of creativity to his admiration for the women in his life who inspired his love of cooking, Mario offers a heartfelt and insightful look into his world.

You’ll also hear about his experiences transitioning from architecture to culinary arts, his take on the global standing of Puerto Rican cuisine, and his mission to highlight the island’s rich culinary diversity.

What you’ll learn from Chef Mario Pagán

• Nueva Mesa Boricua Defined (3:24)
• The history and variations of mofongo across the Caribbean (4:26)
• Local reactions to modernizing traditional dishes (6:01)
• Balancing tradition and evolution in Puerto Rican food (7:17)
• Breaking stereotypes about Puerto Rican cuisine (8:09)
• Tips on experiencing Puerto Rico’s culinary diversity (13:07)
• Insights into Mario Pagán’s restaurant empire (14:05)
• How he adapts Puerto Rican flavors for American diners (17:58)
• Early culinary inspirations and memories (20:11)
• The role of sofrito in Puerto Rican cooking (22:34)
• Switching career paths from architecture to cooking (24:30)
• His time at Johnson & Wales Culinary School (27:02)
• Connection to the legacy of Chayote restaurant (30:28)
• Mentorship under the legendary Alfredo Ayala (31:37)
• Respecting food and fostering teamwork (33:19)
• Creative breakthroughs at 4 a.m. (35:15)
• Alternative paths Mario Pagán might have taken (38:14)
• How architecture influences his approach to food (39:14)
• Collaborating with local purveyors post-hurricane (42:11)
• Navigating challenges in local sourcing after hurricanes (44:34)
• Mario’s vision for Puerto Rican cuisine on a global scale (45:09)
• Where to find the best Puerto Rican specialties (47:20)
• His guilty pleasure foods (49:12)
• Kitchen pet peeves (49:45)
• The most essential ingredient in Puerto Rican cooking (50:20)
• Dream collaborations in the culinary world (54:39)
• The importance of family and strong employee relationships (58:39)

I’d like to share a potential educational resource, “Conversations Behind the Kitchen Door”, my new book that features dialogues with accomplished culinary leaders from various backgrounds and cultures. It delves into the future of culinary creativity and the hospitality industry, drawing from insights of a restaurant-industry-focused podcast, ‘flavors unknown”. It includes perspectives from renowned chefs and local professionals, making it a valuable resource for those interested in building a career in the culinary industry.

Get the book here! Notable Quotes from Chef Mario Pagán

• “You need to be humble. Your ego can kill you in this business. Respecting food, not letting your ego drive you, and keeping your feet on the ground is really important.”
• “If I don’t create, I’m dead.”
• “I breathe it, live it, and love it. Every day I walk into my restaurants, it’s a privilege.”
• “Food is art. The similarities between food and architecture—layering, balancing, structure, color—are striking.”
• “I owe everything to the women in my life—my grandmothers, my aunts, my mom. For us in Puerto Rico, being in the kitchen is about creating memories together.”
• “We are as warm as our food.”
• “Money kills. First, you need to love yourself, love your food, and then the people will come.”
• “Mofongo… it’s a fight between the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico, but Puerto Rico does it better. Of course, I love my Dominican and Cuban brothers and sisters, but I believe we do it best.”

Links to most downloaded episodes (click on any picture to listen to the episode)
Chef Sheldon Simeon
Chef Andy Doubrava
Chef Chris Kajioka
Chef Suzanne Goin

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Chef Mario Pagán

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Chayote Bario Kitchen

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Mario Pagán Restaurant

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Links mentioned in this episode

Restaurant Mario Pagán

La Central

Chayote Bario Kitchen