For more than ten years, I’ve been traveling all over California, reporting stories about food and farming from every county. Now, for the 58th and very last story in the series, I went back to where I grew up — Santa Clara County, to a special-occasion restaurant from my childhood: Chef Chu’s.

When the restaurant opened in 1970, it was a small family business, and the area around it was a relatively sleepy suburb. Now, it’s a Silicon Valley institution — but they don’t deliver, and there’s no online ordering.