Consuming the Craft
The Art of Smoking Malts and Developing Unique Grains with Brian Simpson
Today on Consuming the Craft, I sat down with Brian Simpson, CEO of Riverbend Malt House, to explore the fascinating evolution of craft malt in the southeast. We covered Riverbend’s journey from a modest basement setup in 2010 to a dynamic operation producing unique and locally sourced malts for breweries and distilleries across the country. I poured Brian a special whiskey from Oak and Grist, made with peach wood smoked pilsner malt from Riverbend, sparking a deep dive into the nuances of smoked malts, wood selection, collaboration with local farmers, and the influence of southern terroir on flavor. We discussed industry trends, new grain varieties, regulatory changes, and the powerful role of innovation in the craft beverage scene.
Brian Simpson is at the helm of Riverbend Malt House, the pioneering Asheville-based craft maltster dedicated to bringing local grains into the hands of southern brewers and distillers. Since 2010, Brian has led Riverbend’s transformation, supporting research efforts, working with breeders and farmers, and experimenting with new malting techniques and materials. Riverbend’s malts have contributed to award-winning beers and spirits, and Brian’s passion for innovation continues to drive the industry forward—whether it’s through peach wood smoked whiskey, custom malt batches, or supporting the next wave of craft beverages.
“We really only had six row barleys... mostly for animal feed. Our whole ‘malt with a mission’ was to bring agriculture back into craft beer.” ~Brian Simpson
This Week on Consuming the Craft:
· Riverbend Malt House started in 2010, initially focusing on proving craft malt could be made from southern-grown grains.
· The region’s transition from only animal-feed barley to diverse, high-quality brewing and distilling varieties involved close partnerships with breeders and farmers.
· Smoking malt with different woods, such as peach wood, creates uniquely Southern flavor profiles, especially in spirits and specialty beers.
· Collaborations, like Oak and Grist's peach wood-smoked whiskey, showcase the power of local malt and creative partnerships.
· The craft malt industry is watching for regulatory trends, including the potential U.S. adoption of glycosidic nitrile limits and concerns about ethyl carbomate.
· There’s growing demand in the south for distillers’ malt, high-enzyme, fast-fermentation varieties suitable for whiskey production.
· New and alternative grains like Kernza, millet, and buckwheat present technical challenges but offer gluten-free options and environmental benefits.
· The craft beverage industry’s best chance for survival lies in providing experiences, agility, and inventive offerings rather than just chasing trends.
Connect with Brian Simpson:
This episode is brought to you by…
McConnell Farms - Taste the Way You Remember. Enjoy homemade ciders and ice cream made from only the best produce on the market. Visit the McConnell Farms website to learn more about our seasonal inventory and the delicious creations you can make with our homegrown produce.
Consuming the Craft
Thanks for tuning into this week’s Consuming the Craft Podcast episode, brought to you by AB Tech’s Craft Beverage Institute of the Southeast. If you enjoyed this episode, please subscribe and leave a review wherever you get your podcasts.
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