This week, N Quentin Woolf follows in the footsteps Dickens, Ruskin and Tennyson as he visits the home of Thomas and Jane Carlyle in Chelsea. He meets custodian, Lin Skippings, who actually lives in the home of the renowned 19th century social commentators. She shows him around the building, noting quite how much has changed in the area since the couple lived there - not least how salubrious the area has become.